In Behaaloscha it explains that they complained that for all the traveling they wanted something substantial to eat to revive their spirits. The Zera Shimshon brings a Gemara in Shabbos that talks about how someone who has bloodletting done should eat meat and drink wine to bring back their nefesh and restore the redness of the blood they lost. Although the maan was easily the most amazing food, and it could taste like anything, they wanted actual meat.
The mussar is speaking to their ingratitude regarding the whiteness of the maan. The Zera Shimshon brings a Gemara in Kesubos that talks about the importance of a smile, showing the whiteness of one's teeth, and how it's worth more than a cup of milk, sustenance. Moshe Rabbeinu is giving Bnei Yisroel mussar for not appreciating the smile Hashem was giving them, the white of the maan, instead they wanted the red, the sustenance. They failed to see the good in what they had.
We learn from this how easy it is to overlook the good that we have in favor of what we think might be better for us.
Source: Zera Shimshon Parshas Devarim
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